If your well suddenly stops producing water, the most common causes are a failed pump, a bad control box, a tripped breaker, a pressure switch issue, or electrical damage. In winter, freezing can also be a factor. The first thing I recommend is checking your breaker panel and listening to see if the pump is attempting to run. If everything looks normal but there’s still no water, the system needs to be tested properly. We diagnose the issue before recommending any major replacement. No water is an emergency — and we treat it that way.

A bad control box, capacitor, pressure switch, or wiring issue can mimic pump failure. I’ve seen many cases where homeowners were told they needed a full pump replacement when the issue was actually electrical. We test voltage, amperage draw, resistance, and pressure behavior before determining whether the pump itself has failed. Diagnosis always comes before replacement.

Most well pumps last between 10 and 20 years. Some older systems can last much longer, even 30+ years depending on usage and water conditions. Age alone doesn’t mean you need a new pump. If it’s testing properly and operating efficiently, there’s no reason to replace it just because of its age.

Common signs include loss of water pressure, short cycling, breakers tripping repeatedly, the pump running constantly, or complete loss of water. The only way to know for sure is proper testing. We never recommend replacing a pump without confirming that it has truly failed.

Muddy water after pump work can happen if sediment was disturbed when the pump was pulled, if the pump depth was changed, or if the well wasn’t fully flushed after installation. In Northwest Washington, especially in Skagit and Snohomish County, heavy clay soils and glacial deposits can make wells more sensitive to disturbance. If muddy water continues for weeks or months, that’s not typical and the system should be re-evaluated.

If done improperly, yes. If done correctly, no. Proper pump installation includes setting the correct depth, protecting wiring, securing fittings, and thoroughly flushing the well afterward. Skipping those steps can lead to ongoing turbidity issues.

The cost depends on depth, horsepower, wire condition, drop pipe material, and accessibility. A shallow well replacement is very different from a 250- or 300-foot well. We provide written estimates before starting major work so you know what to expect.

Unexpected costs typically happen when additional issues are discovered after pulling the pump — damaged wiring, failed pressure tanks, deeper settings than expected, or corroded components. The difference is communication. Any additional work should be explained before proceeding.

In this region, black staining is often caused by manganese. Iron can also cause reddish staining. Sediment disturbance can cause temporary discoloration. The only way to know for sure is water testing. Replacing filters monthly usually indicates an underlying issue that should be addressed instead of masked.

In Northwest Washington, iron and manganese are common in certain formations. Heavy sediment can also clog filters quickly if the well needs cleaning or rehabilitation. If filters are turning black repeatedly, it’s worth testing the water and evaluating the well condition.

Yes, especially if you notice changes in clarity, taste, odor, or staining. It’s also recommended after flooding, long periods of sediment, or before buying or selling a home. Testing typically includes coliform bacteria, nitrates, iron, manganese, and pH.

Most residential pump replacements take between two and four hours, depending on depth and site access. Deeper wells take longer. We test and flush the system before we leave to make sure everything is operating properly.

Yes, especially during hard freezes. Exposed piping, shallow components, or improper insulation can freeze and stop water flow. Preventative winter preparation is important for well systems in our area.

Absolutely. A private well is a major mechanical system and your primary water source. A proper inspection should verify pump condition, flow rate, pressure stability, system age, and water quality. Recently flipped homes with new equipment should still be tested thoroughly.

Red flags include murky water, inconsistent pressure, undersized pressure tanks, missing documentation, or recently replaced equipment without testing records. New equipment does not automatically mean a healthy system.

In many cases, yes. Well rehabilitation can remove sediment buildup, improve clarity, and restore flow. It’s often significantly less expensive than drilling a new well. Every situation is different, but cleaning should always be considered before replacement.

The physical sealing process typically takes one to two days, but county permitting timelines vary. Washington State has strict groundwater protection requirements, and proper decommissioning must meet regulatory standards.

Look for a licensed and bonded contractor who diagnoses before replacing, provides written estimates, explains options clearly, and understands local soil and groundwater conditions. Your well is your drinking water system — not just plumbing. Experience and integrity matter.